When you taste a properly made Amatriciana, you’re not just eating pasta - you’re experiencing a piece of Italian history. This sauce originates from the mountain town of Amatrice in Lazio (tragically devastated by an earthquake in 2016), and it’s one of the four Roman pasta classics alongside Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, and Gricia.
The Story Behind Amatriciana
Legend has it that Amatriciana evolved from pasta alla gricia when tomatoes were introduced to Italy from the New World. Shepherds in the Apennine mountains would carry dried pasta, guanciale, Pecorino cheese, and later, tomatoes - ingredients that could survive long periods in the mountains. The result? A sauce that’s both rustic and refined, simple yet deeply flavorful.
Ingredients (Serves 4):
The Essentials:
- 400g (14 oz) bucatini or rigatoni - Traditional choices
- 150g (5 oz) guanciale - Cut into thick strips or small cubes
- 400g (14 oz) San Marzano tomatoes - Whole peeled, preferably DOP
- 100g (3.5 oz) Pecorino Romano - Freshly grated
- 1 small dried red chili pepper (peperoncino) - Or red pepper flakes to taste
- Dry white wine - Optional, about 1/4 cup
- Extra virgin olive oil - Just a touch
- Salt - For pasta water
- Black pepper - Freshly ground (optional)
About the Ingredients:
Guanciale: Like carbonara, authentic Amatriciana demands guanciale (cured pork jowl), not pancetta or bacon. The unique flavor of guanciale is irreplaceable.
Tomatoes: San Marzano DOP tomatoes are ideal. Use whole peeled tomatoes, not tomato sauce or passata. You’ll crush them by hand.
Pecorino Romano: The traditional cheese from Lazio. Its sharp, salty flavor is essential to the dish.
Pasta: Bucatini (thick, hollow spaghetti) is the traditional choice in Rome, but rigatoni is also classic and easier to find.
Instructions:
1. Prepare Your Ingredients
- Remove guanciale rind if present and cut into strips about 1cm thick and 2-3cm long (or small cubes if preferred)
- Grate the Pecorino Romano
- Open and drain your tomatoes slightly, reserving the liquid
- Have your chili ready
2. Render the Guanciale
Heat a large, deep pan over medium-low heat. Add just a drizzle of olive oil (or none - purists skip it entirely). Add the guanciale and let it render slowly for 8-10 minutes.
The guanciale should become golden and crispy, releasing its beautiful fat. The fat is the foundation of your sauce, so don’t rush this step.
Important: Do not let it burn. If it starts to get too dark, reduce heat.
3. Build the Sauce Base
Once the guanciale is crispy and golden:
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Add chili: Crumble in the dried chili pepper (or add red pepper flakes). Let it toast in the fat for 30 seconds to release its flavor.
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Optional wine step: Some cooks add a splash of dry white wine at this point. Let it evaporate completely - about 1-2 minutes. This is debated among purists but adds complexity.
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Add tomatoes: Crush the whole peeled tomatoes by hand directly into the pan. The texture should be chunky, not smooth. If using a can, use your hands to squeeze each tomato as you add it.
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Season lightly: Add just a small pinch of salt (remember, the guanciale and Pecorino are already salty).
4. Simmer the Sauce
Let the sauce simmer gently for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes should break down, the flavors should marry, and the sauce should thicken slightly but remain somewhat liquid.
The sauce should not be too thick - it needs to coat the pasta, not smother it.
Taste and adjust: Check seasoning. The sauce should be slightly spicy, savory from the guanciale, and have a bright tomato flavor.
5. Cook the Pasta
While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously.
Cook your bucatini or rigatoni until al dente - usually 1-2 minutes less than package directions.
Reserve pasta water: Before draining, save at least 1 cup of the starchy cooking water.
6. Marry the Pasta and Sauce
This is crucial for all Roman pasta dishes:
- Drain the pasta (don’t rinse it)
- Add the pasta directly to the pan with the sauce
- Toss over medium-high heat for 1-2 minutes
- Add splashes of pasta water as needed to create a silky coating
- The sauce should cling to every piece of pasta
Remove from heat before adding cheese (this prevents it from becoming stringy).
7. Finish with Pecorino
Turn off the heat. Add about half the grated Pecorino Romano to the pan and toss vigorously. The residual heat will melt the cheese into the sauce.
Add more pasta water if needed - the consistency should be creamy and flowing, not dry.
8. Serve Immediately
Plate the pasta and finish each serving with:
- More grated Pecorino Romano
- A few of the best pieces of crispy guanciale on top
- Optional: A crack of black pepper (though purists say the chili is enough)
Regional Variations & Debates:
The Onion Controversy
In Amatrice, the birthplace of this sauce, onions are strictly forbidden. However, in Rome, some versions include a small amount of white onion, sautéed with the guanciale. Traditional Amatriciani consider this sacrilege.
White Wine - Yes or No?
Adding white wine to deglaze after cooking the guanciale is common in Roman trattorias but not traditional in Amatrice.
Black Pepper
Some Romans add black pepper at the end, but the traditional version relies only on the heat from peperoncino.
Tips for Perfect Amatriciana:
Quality tomatoes matter: Bad tomatoes = bad Amatriciana. Invest in good San Marzano tomatoes.
Don’t overcook the sauce: Unlike many tomato sauces, Amatriciana should be relatively quick-cooked. The tomatoes should taste bright and fresh, not reduced and concentrated.
Guanciale is non-negotiable: If you can’t find guanciale, make a different dish. Pancetta is acceptable in emergencies, but bacon will ruin it.
The right pasta shape: Bucatini is traditional because the hollow center traps the sauce. Rigatoni’s ridges also catch the sauce beautifully.
Consistency is key: The sauce should be saucy enough to coat the pasta but not swimming in liquid. Pasta water is your friend for getting it just right.
The Amatrice Tradition
Every year (before the 2016 earthquake), the town of Amatrice held a festival dedicated to this sauce - Sagra degli Spaghetti all’Amatriciana. Chefs from around Italy would come to compete, and strict rules governed what could be called authentic Amatriciana.
After the devastating earthquake, this dish became a symbol of solidarity. Restaurants worldwide held “Amatriciana days” where proceeds supported the town’s reconstruction. The sauce isn’t just food - it’s a connection to a community and a way of life.
How It Differs from Other Roman Classics:
- Gricia: Amatriciana without tomatoes - the “white” version
- Carbonara: Uses eggs instead of tomatoes, no chili
- Cacio e Pepe: Just cheese, pepper, and pasta water - no pork at all
All four share the same DNA: simple ingredients, respect for tradition, and flawless technique.
Final Thoughts
Amatriciana is proof that Italian cooking isn’t about complexity - it’s about honoring each ingredient. The sweetness of tomatoes, the richness of guanciale fat, the sharp bite of Pecorino, and the gentle heat of chili come together in perfect harmony.
When you make this dish, you’re keeping alive a tradition that stretches back centuries, from mountain shepherds to Roman trattorias to your own kitchen. Make it with respect, make it with good ingredients, and most importantly, make it with love.
Buon appetito!
A portion of the spirit of this recipe is dedicated to Amatrice and its people. Their resilience is as strong as their sauce is delicious.